Archive for the ‘Money Lessons’ category

Use Half.com to get BigCrumbs referrals.

June 29th, 2010

If you’re not familiar with BigCrumbs, it’s a cash back website where you get cash back on purchases at participating online retailers such Buy.com, Walmart.com, etc. The difference is that you get a small percentage of cash back for your referral’s purchases also. Build up a network of active referrals and you might build up a small stream of passive income to pay for a meal here and there. Also the cash back rates are pretty competitive when compared with sites like Fatwallet.

I buy and sell things on Half.com from time to time. I noticed that Half.com gives 4% cash back on purchases through the site. So I decided that each person that purchases an item is a potential referral to BigCrumbs. So in all my correspondence with each buyer I’ll usually list the tracking number, shipping update, etc. and also end with a short spiel about earning cash back on future Half.com purchases.

I’ll link my referral link using the url shortening service bit.ly.

How I (and you) can use Fandango to save money on movie tickets.

May 19th, 2010

This is a detailed post on how I saved $32 off of $68.50 in movie tickets and ended up paying $36.50 for five 3-d movie tickets (which are usually higher priced). Hopefully you enjoy the post and learn some new tricks. Feel free to leave a comment and add your own tip/trick.

My girlfriend wanted to get tickets to take her 3 younger siblings out to see Shrek 4 in 3d which comes out this Friday. Since tickets would most likely be sold out the plan was to buy the tickets online ahead of time. The total on Fandango would have been a whopping $68.50 for2 adult and 3 child tickets! Here’s how it would’ve broken down:

2 adult tickets x $14.50 = $29
3 child tickets x $11.50 = $34.50
Also Fandango charges a $1/ticket convenience fee
5 tickets x $1 = $5

For a grand total of $68.50. Note that this doesn’t include the overpriced soda or snacks and generally I don’t indulge in them unless it’s free or heavily discounted.

Yes, I know you can save 100% by not going to the movie or waiting for it to come out on DVD but there are children and Shrek in 3 dimensions involved so let’s not digress. Let’s move on to the savings:

The first step involved taking advantage of the 2 for 1 Shrek movie ticket offer available on the Fandango Visa Signature page. Basically to get the deal you need to use a Visa Signature card (most Visa credit cards generally are). You can enter the first six digits of your card to see if you’re eligible. The 2-for-1 offer covers the convenience fee and the price of the ticket up to $19. You won’t be able to use any fandango bucks or other claim codes with this offer so I purchased two adult tickets separately. The total amount was $31 for two tickets minus $15.50 from the claim code was $15.50 for two adult tickets. $15.50 spent, $15.50 saved.

If you don’t have a Visa Signature card you won’t be able to take advantage of the next savings strategy outlined in the next paragraph but read on. I’ll talk about other ways to cut costs.

On the same page of Fandango Visa Signature offers there’s a deal for discounted 20% off Fandango Bucks which can be used to purchase movie tickets. You essentially pay $20 for $25 worth of Fandango Bucks. Since you plan on purchasing the tickets anyway it makes total sense to buy the Fandango Bucks at a discount. I bought one $25 gift card for $20. $20 spent, $5 saved.

If you don’t have a Visa Signature card but have a discover card, you can get 10% cashback on Fandango Bucks purchases through ShopDiscover.

The next step involves going on eBay and purchasing a 2 for 1 Fandango coupon. This is also useful if you can’t get in the visa signature 2-for-1 offer. The coupons generally sell for $1 or so and that’s the price which I nabbed one at. $1 spent.

So going back on Fandango I set up another transaction to buy 3 children’s tickets at $11.50 each and $3 in convenience fees ($12.50/ticket). The total is $37.50 but I redeemed the 2-for-1 coupon I nabbed off eBay which knocks $12.50 off and brings the total to $25. I then apply the $25 Fandango Bucks gift card which I got earlier at a discount. $12.50 saved (from the 2-for-1 code applied to one of the children’s tickets).

Total spent for 2 adult and 3 child 3-d movie tickets $36.5.

So in the end I went from $68.50 to $36.50. Was it worth it? Definitely, the whole process took me less than an hour total and I saved $32. All it required was a bit of advance planning. Well, that’s it, hopefully you gained something from this post for the next time you purchase movie tickets.

How I plan to vacation in Europe for (almost) free.

March 31st, 2010

Before the end of the year is up I plan on going to Europe with my girlfriend for a vacation. Normally this would be a pricey vacation but in this post I’ll detail all the steps I’m taking to cut the majority of the costs. I’m a low income student who loves to travel so hopefully this can inspire others to find ways to travel frugally. In general when traveling the biggest expenses are airfare and accommodations. If you can lower or eliminate these costs than seeing the world can be had for a lot less.

Getting There and Back

A couple months ago I took advantage of the Chase British Airways 100,000 miles deal (which was posted in the post on this blog but is no longer active). On British Airways 100,000 miles is enough to get two roundtrip tickets in economy from my New York City to Europe Zone 1 which includes Belgium, France, Germany, Ireland, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. The best part is British Airways’ online booking system allows for free stopovers as long it’s part of the direct routing. For example if you were going to Paris, France, you’d generally have to connect through London anyway. So the plan is to stopover in London for a couple of days and then visit a another city or vice versa since the stopover can be on your return trip.

What would sweeten this deal is the British Airways card has a benefit where every year you spend $30,000 you’ll get voucher which allows you to take a companion on the same flight in the same class of service when you redeem your BA miles. Spending an additional $30k  on the card would net 137,500 miles total which would allow access to Europe Zone 2. I could then redeem the miles for one business class ticket (100k-120k) and use the voucher to bring my girlfriend along. Two business class tickets would be nice but the problem here is getting $30k worth of spending on the card. Chase only gave me a limit of $5k and I would have to find a number of different ways to get put spending on the card without using any money (Coins from the US Mint, funding bank accounts, etc).

Accommodations

I’ve gathered enough points at Starwood Hotels (Sheraton, Westin, W Hotels, etc.) using the American Express Starwood Preferred Guest credit card to get 4-5 free nights at hotels in prime locations (London, Paris, etc.). Hopefully by the time of the trip I’ll have acquired more points through spending and referring friends (You get 5k for referring friends). The card also has a 10,000 point sign up bonus which is enough for a night at a hotel with a prime location. I’ll probably try to get my girlfriend to sign up for the card and that’ll be another free night we don’t have to pay for.

Another big perk is that if I was paying for accommodations I normally wouldn’t stay at nice and expensive Starwood hotels. On average 5 days would cost $1,000! Getting it for free cuts a lot of costs.

I also plan on signing for other credit card bonuses at other hotel chains to bank the points and just in case I need more free nights.

Meals and other misc. travel expenses

This is one area where I won’t find much stuff for free but cost is basically whatever I choose in that I can eat and attend whichever attractions I please. However because I leave I’ll need to do research and find a credit card that doesn’t have foreign transaction fees for purchases and figure out how to change currency at the lowest cost. Discounts to various touristy attractions should also be thoroughly researched.

Belgium, France, Germany, Ireland, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Switzerland, United Kingdom

43% of Americans have less than $10,000 for retirement.

March 10th, 2010

According to this CBS article which summarizes the 2010 retirement confidence survey(pdf):

  • 27% reported having less than $1,000 set aside for retirement.
  • 43% reported having less than $10,000 set aside for retirement.
  • 54% reported having less than $25,000 set aside for retirement.
  • Only 16% of workers feel confidence they’ll have financial security in retirement.
  • Only 46% of workers have calculated what their financial goals for retirement should be.

Honestly these numbers do not surprise me. The United States is not a nation of savers. The problem is a lot of people are financially illiterate and/or spendthrifts. Is it really that hard to save for retirement?

A lot of people assume they don’t need to save up for retirement because they assume Social Security will take care of them or they can always start saving up later on in life closer to retirement. They keep put off saving for retirement that one day it’s too late and they have to continue working to be able to retire comfortably.

One of the advantages to saving young is you get to take advantage of the power of compounding interest. Let’s say you put away $1,000 saved up at age 22. If you earned 5% return and added $1,200 a year to your savings you’d end up with $210,207.20. Although this probably won’t buy as much in the future due to inflation it only took roughly $100/month in savings.

I used 5% as a conservative number. If you were able to average a higher rate of return throughout the 45 years you’d see the compounding effect is quite noticable.

$1,000 starting amount (principal), $1,200 added every year, 45 years

  • 5% average yearly return = $210,207.20
  • 6% average yearly return = $284,374.36
  • 7% average yearly return = $387,904.57
  • 8% average yearly return = $532,831.73

The point here I’m trying to make is to start saving early and over the years contributing as little as $100 a month has the potential to grow into something sizable.

The cashback site with referral commissions.

January 13th, 2010

I’ve been looking at Big Crumb’s referral structure more closely and it turns out it’s worth discussing. Currently BigCrumbs will give you cashback on all your purchases and a percentage of your referrals cashback purchases. The amount entirely depends on the retailer cashback amount.

Let’s say for instance you’re shopping at Drugstore.com in which Big Crumbs offers 9% cashback on non-prescription purchases. The referral amount is 1%. So this means when I make a purchase at drugstore.com I’ll get 9% cashback and whoever referred me gets 1% of the purchase amount.

This gives everyone an incentive to refer friends, family, etc. People also have an incentive to shop through BigCrumbs in that they’ll receive cashback for their purchases.

You have the option of two types of memberships at BigCrumbs. The first being “Crumbsaver” where you’ll earn the highest personal cashback on your own purchases and earn commissions on people you directly refer. The other choice being “Crumbearner” where you’ll earn a reduced cashback amount (5% in the drugstore.com example) but earn commissions on up to 5 generations of referals. Once you switch to Crumbearner you cannot switch back. I suggest you sign up as a a Crumbsaver and and switch to Crumbearner after your referrals have started to refer more people.

BigCrumbs is focused so much on referrals that if you sign up without someone referring you they’ll assign one randomly to you. When signing up for BigCrumbs I ask that you help me out and just make sure hejustlaughs is in the referrer box. I appreciate it.

link to BigCrumbs.com

Las Vegas $20 Trick

January 11th, 2010

The $20 trick is where you sandwich a twenty dollar bill in between your credit card and ID while checking into a hotel in hopes of getting the clerk to upgrade your room to a nicer one than the one you booked. The desk agent usually has has some leeway in upgrading guests. Generally this practice is commonly most used in Las Vegas although you can try it elsewhere.

A couple weeks ago when my girlfriend and I went to Las Vegas.  I tried the $20 trick at the Paris Hotel & Casino on the strip. I didn’t get a awesome upgrade but I did get a room with a nice view of the Eiffel tower and the strip. My friend staying over at the Flamingo tried the $20 trick and had a more successful result. He booked a basic room but was upgraded to a Go room complete with a view, HDTV, etc.

If I ever come back to Vegas I’ll definitely always try the $20 trick. If you’re the type of person that worries about losing $20 and not getting anything for it please don’t bother going as this is probably of the best gambles in Vegas. I’ve even heard of people occasionally getting the $20 back when the agent couldn’t upgrade them.

Top Five Credit Card Myths

January 7th, 2010

Who doesn’t love lists? Here are my top five credit card myths (most of which I encounter fairly often).

#1 You must show ID if merchant requests it.

When I was in Las Vegas I was purchasing an item from a gift shop and the clerk asked for ID. I showed her my ID and commented that places I’ve been to on the West Coast seem to ask for ID more often than around then around the NYC area where I live. She then said that if merchants doesn’t ask for ID I can claim that the transaction is fraudualent and she personally puts “SEE ID” on the back of all her cards and if the cashier doesn’t check ID she asks for a manager (myth #2). Since I’m in the regular business of correcting people I didn’t bother to point out those grossly wrong and rather silly misconceptions.

In reality merchants may ask for a customer to show ID but they cannot refuse acceptance of a credit card if you do not show ID. Many retailers and their ignorant clerks are unaware of this. However in some instances a merchant can make an ID a requirement if it’s for some other purpose such as age verification.

Don’t believe me? Most people don’t.

Here’s a except from the Mastercard Merchant Rules Manual (Visa has a similar rule in their manual):

A merchant must not refuse to complete a MasterCard card transaction solely because a cardholder who has complied with the conditions for presentment of a card at the POI [point of interaction] refuses to provide additional identification information, except as specifically permitted or required by the Standards. A merchant may require additional identification from the cardholder if the information is required to complete the transaction, such as for shipping purposes. A merchant in a country or region that supports use of the MasterCard Address Verification Service (AVS) may require the cardholder’s ZIP or postal code to complete a cardholder-activated terminal (CAT) transaction, or the cardholder’s address and ZIP or postal code to complete a mail order, phone order, or e-commerce transaction. – Entire Rules Manual 2009 in PDF

The credit card issuers want using a credit card to be faster and easier than using cash. Checking for ID adds a simple hassle that people may not want on small purchases. Notice how most stores aren’t even requiring a signature on purchases under a certain dollar amount?

Generally I pick my fights as most clerks are just following orders from higher up. If you wanted to you could report the merchant to Mastercard for a rule violation you can do so at their convenient online form.

#2 Putting “SEE ID” or “Ask for ID” is a great way to prevent fraud.

No, it’s actually pretty stupid. All you’ve really done is subjected yourself to the added hassle of showing ID at each and every merchant that actually decides to obey your pretty handwriting. The back panel of a credit card must be signed for it to be valid. A merchant should ask for ID if he sees “SEE ID” on the back of your card, not because he’s following your instructions but he’s following the credit card company’s. Once they ask for ID the merchant is suppose to make you sign the card in full view in order to accept the card.

Here’s except from the rules manual for merchants from VISA.

“See ID” or “Ask for ID” is not a valid substitute for a signature. The customer must sign the card in your presence, as stated above. [There's a section above this on what to do with cards that are not signed]

- from pg 29 of the rules for visa merchants manual

Although people think they’re clever for adding “SEE ID” to prevent unwanted credit card usage by fraudsters it actually makes the card unusable if the merchant enforces the rules. Ever notice how it says “not valid unless signed” on the back of the cards? However generally if you lost a card you’re not liable for any of the spending to begin with (the law actually says you’re responsible for up to $50 but almost every CC company waives this) and your best bet is just to cancel the card as soon as possible.

#3 Merchants are allowed to set minimum and maximum purchase amounts for credit cards.

A lot of small stores such as my local Exxon convenience shop post minimum purchase amounts for credit cards. They tend to do this because credit card fees cut into their profit margins. This is however against the terms of the terms and conditions of the credit card company agreement.

Here’s an except from the Visa merchant rules.

Always honor valid Visa cards in your acceptance category, regardless of the dollar amount of the purchase. Imposing minimum or maximum purchase amounts in order to accept a Visa card transaction is a violation of the Visa rules.

- pg 9 of the rules for visa merchants manual

Many merchants just don’t know the rules or think they can get away with it. You can use the form linked in myth #1 if you feel the need to report a merchant. Some stores argue that credit cards hurt their profit margins too much. Well, they should not accept credit cards in the first place then since it’s the cost of doing business. I pick my fights but some places have ridiculous $20-$25 minimums.

#4 Carrying a balance helps you build credit

For some reason, tons of people have told me when I was younger I should carry a balance to help build my credit. This is simply not true. The best way to build your credit is simply on-time payments and by letting your credit accounts age. Carrying a balance might actually hurt your credit if the balance is a high % of your overall available credit as it looks like you’re in debt.

#5 If you don’t activate the credit card, the application process will never be completed.

A friend who was raising money for his fraternity by getting people to sign up for credit cards told people (myself included) to simply not activate the card once they got it in the mail and it’d be fine. I don’t know if he was lying to people to get sign-ups or he truly believed this. I hope it was the latter and he was mistaken.

When you fill out that application you’re not just signing up for a credit card. A credit card in itself is useless in that it is just a piece plastic with a magnetic strip. You’re essentially signing up for a credit account at a financial institution. The credit card is the link to that credit account for it contains essential information for merchants to process your transaction. Activation of the credit card just lets the financial institution that issued your card know that you got the card.

How I maximized cashback on a recent purchase.

January 2nd, 2010

Many websites offer cashback on purchases if you click through their merchant link. Generally the website will get a percentage of the sale as a commission and then kick back some of that money to you. Different websites will decide to kickback different amounts and therefore it’s sometimes worthwhile for you to check around to see who’s offering you the most cashback (especially on large purchases).

In the past whenever I purchased anything from an online retailer I’d generally just go through the Fatwallet cashback portal out of habit and laziness. However I’m getting into the habit of looking around for the highest cashback I can get since Fatwallet doesn’t always have the highest cashback percentage these days.

Recently I was looking to make a purchase from Buy.com in the “home” category. I only noted what category my purchase was in because some cashback websites tier the cashback percentage depending on the category of your item. I check several different cashback websites to see what they were offering.

  • Fatwallet – 3% in home & outdoors item purchases
  • BigCrumbs – 4.5% in home & outdoors item purchases
  • Mr. Rebates – Flat 3% cashback on any item purchases (currently $5 sign-up bonus)
  • ebates – Flat 3% cashback on any item purchases (currently $5 sign-up bonus)

BigCrumbs was the site offering the highest cashback at 4.5% while all the other sites seemed to offer 3%. Spending 5 minutes to check different cashback sites netted me an extra 1.5% cashback on my purchase. Generally this is wasted time when the purchases are low amounts but if it’s more and more worthwhile the larger your purchases are.

Please don’t ask me to cosign loans.

June 2nd, 2009

From time to time there will be the occasional friend who asks me to co-sign a loan for them. Sadly I always refuse because I don’t think most people realize that cosigning a loan is a bigger deal that it appears to be.

You aren’t just lending someone your credit score but rather you’re on the hook if they ever default. It’s a serious financial step that you should reserve only for people who you intimately know. I wouldn’t mind co-signing a future spouse’s loan because chances are I’d know their finances well enough to know they aren’t likely to default and relationships are about trust so I hope I’d trust a spouse enough to co-sign a loan or that would be the last of my problems.

Co-signing a loan adds the debt amount on both your credit reports so if you’re someone that needs their credit report to appear debt free think twice about co-signing that loan.

$2 bill experiment follow-up.

May 12th, 2009

In a previous post I talked about how I obtained a bunch of $2 bills and will go around spending them at various places.

The results were a bit mixed and it was somewhat interesting.

I’ve come to realize that I don’t spend much cash in general. I don’t mean I don’t spend money but rather most of my transactions are credit card based and cash transactions were few and far in between. This led to me taking a lot longer than I expected to spend the $200 worth of $2 bills I had obtained.

Most of my $2 bills were spent at mom & pop shops that didn’t accept credit and bars where opening a tab for a credit transaction is sometimes more trouble than it’s worth when it’s crowded.

At a bar I frequent they would have $3 specials for drinks on certain nights and two $2 bills easily covered the cost of the drink and a $1 tip for the bartender. One bartender in particular would eye every $2 bill I handed him and I understand as it is suspicious to have somebody pay in $2 bills all night.

Probably due to the myth that $2 bills are rare at one bar the bartender exchanged my $2 bills for singles from her purse probably because she wanted to hold onto them.

At another bar, the very attractive waitress flat out asked if they were real.

At one of my favorite sandwich shops the cashier gave me the wrong change. The total was $6.50 or so and I handed her 4 $2 bills and she gave me back 50 cents (I did get the correct change after pointing it out).

Numerous friends, cashiers, etc. have all said something along the lines of “$2 bills! You shouldn’t spend those, they’re rare!”.

A good number of my $2 bills went to friends who wanted to exchange them with me since they didn’t have any $2 bills.

All in all my personal $2 bill experiment was an interesting experience. I got to see firsthand how many people believed that $2 bills were rare and couple more of my friends realized I’m a bit eccentric. I have exactly one $2 bill left and I think I’ll keep it in my desk drawer. You know… cause they’re rare. ;)